Just when I was starting to tire of the long healing process following an accident when the three-wheeler I was riding toppled over a rut, I was once again pleasantly surprised by Sri Lanka, and my fondness for this exotic island rekindled to its former fervour. Sri Lanka, as I keep finding out, is full of surprises and hidden gems, Kitulgala being but one of them.
Kitulgala, at the gateway as it were to Nuwara Eliya and the hill country boasts a number of attractions. David Lean’s 1957 Oscar winning film, The Bridge on the River Kwai was filmed in this beautiful area; it is also renowned for its excellent white water rafting on the Kelani River, but these are only two of the better known allurements of the area.
As much as I like Colo
mbo I always thoroughly enjoy getting away from the hustle and bustle of the city and a quiet weekend in Kitulgala was just what I needed to rejuvenate myself. The drive from Colombo is a lovely one and the end destination, Kitulgala Rest House sitting offered a warm welcome with the smiling, friendly staff anxious to make us comfortable. The Rest House is part of the Ceylon Hotels Corporation, which has Colombo’s Heritage Galle Face Hotel as its flagship.After a pleasant lunch at the at a table offering a spectacular view of the river and the Bandara Kele forest, my fortunate colleague had the opportunity to sample Kitulgala’s famous white water rafting. My injured foot made that activity out of bounds for me and I could only watch the takeoff.
The highly trained and experienced instructors from Lanka Adventures decked him out in the required safety gear, gave him a briefing and generally prepared him for the forthcoming adventure. Ninety minutes later I was told all about an amazing experience which he had thoroughly enjoyed. I was more than a tinge envious!
Later that afternoon we visited the Beli Lena caves which are situated high up in the vast and breathtakingly beautiful Kitulgala Rubber Estate. The caves, to which one must reach hiking through coffee, cocoa and rubber plantations, are believed to have been occupied between 25,000 BC and 1500 BC.
In 1950 a monk had built a pathway and temple home for himself in the caves where he lived in isolation until his death. These constructions can be seen in the cave and the view over the estate and the surrounding countryside from the main upper cave is truly beautiful. The serenity and stillness of the forest with only the sound of chirping birds, rustling leaves and the running water was worlds away from the never ending bustle of Colombo.
After dinner we went to bed early in view of our early morning start. My alarm went off at 5.30 am, not a time I am usually roused at. By 6.15 we were crossing the Kelani River on a bamboo raft with our guide who was taking us for an early morning hike through the Bandara Kele forest up to the Makulwella Waterfalls. The cool morning air was refreshing and the mist hanging over the river and surrounding mountains was almost mystical.
Our path took us through Parawalathanne where the villagers were already up and about. As the mist rose, the suns first rays dappled the pathway before us turning the forest into an enchanted dell of dancing sunbeams. The two and a half hour walk was refreshing and ensured a healthy appetite which was rewarded by a wholesome breakfast at the Rest House before heading back to Colombo.
Despite my fatigue and aching bones after the weekend’s uncommon physical exercise, I slept the deep and welcome sleep of one who deserve it, and woke refreshed and invigorated for work on Monday morning.
A trip to Kitulgala was just what I needed; it was thoroughly energizing and it allowed me to see more of this beautiful island.
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